从华人传统的经济菜饭到娘惹、到马来风味，一道道述说多元文化融合的味蕾风景。

杂菜饭几乎是每个小贩中心或咖啡店的常见摊位。它又被称为“经济菜饭”，价格实惠，通常人均消费不超过5元。相较于中国南方的食摊，新加坡和马来西亚的杂菜饭受多元种族文化影响，菜色更为丰富。

中式杂菜饭由简入繁

由华人经营的杂菜饭多是连锁摊位，由中央厨房统一处理食材，再送到摊位烹制。但识途老马更爱光顾菜品有特色的个人经营摊位。

后港3道第6座组屋楼下的金华美食店，原是后港人的隐藏版好料，但这两三年被网红和媒体竞相曝光，原因是10多年来不起价。即便2024年因物价高涨，两菜一肉从2元调至2.50元，还是非常实惠。必点是咖喱鸡、卤肉和香脆的鸡翅膀。

在全岛有三个摊位的海洋咖喱鱼头，是少数也卖现煮菜肴的杂菜饭。娘惹式砂煲咖喱鱼头偏酸少辣，特别开胃。除了招牌砂煲咖喱鱼头，还有一些其他摊位较少见的菜肴，如自制乌打、辣炒啦啦和蚝油苏东。用餐高峰期的长龙，是受欢迎的铁证。

大巴窑1巷第125座组屋楼下的666菜饭粥，每天有不同的豪华特色菜，价格都在6元以内，如炸三文鱼、炸石斑鱼、红烧和牛、羊排和大虾球，以满足愿意宠宠自己的食客。

潮州粥和海南咖喱饭

本地还有另两类具籍贯色彩的杂菜饭。首先是潮州粥，粒粒分明，粥底清澈如汤。琳琅满目的菜肴有蒸鱼、汆汤白肚鱼、带膏蒸苏东、自制鱼饼、卤鸭和三层肉等。配粥“咸料”也不能少，如咸菜、咸鱼、咸蛋、银鱼仔和冬菜肉饼。

海南先辈较迟下南洋，只能到洋人、土生华人和日本人家庭打工，也因此学到各家烹饪技巧。黄循财总理在2024年国庆群众大会演讲时，将新加坡的多元文化比喻为一盘道地的海南咖喱饭，因为它汇集了西餐炸猪扒、娘惹咖喱鸡、印度咖喱香料和华人卤汁，只有在新加坡这个多元和包容的社会，才能找得到这么独特的美食。

另一特色是以各种酱汁浇饭，包括咖喱汁、印度咖喱汁和卤汁，把整盘菜饭“淹没”在酱汁中。

娘惹菜肴工多味浓

众所周知，娘惹菜大多耗时费劲，一般只能到餐馆品尝。所以，打着娘惹旗号的杂菜饭令人欣喜，花不到10元，就能品尝几道娘惹菜。当然，摊位卖的不全是娘惹菜，较多是其他摊位常见的菜肴。

Yummy Nyonya Peranakan在金融区马吉街熟食中心（Market Street Hawker Centre）二楼，已经营十多年。食客对仁当牛肉的评价很高，牛肉软化成肉丝，肉味浓郁，糅合香料和椰浆。其他菜肴有仁当鸡、咖喱鸡、黑果鸡、咖喱虾、苏东、咖喱杂菜和娘惹杂菜等。

另一家在马林百列熟食中心的Emmanuel Peranakan Cuisine，提供以碟豆花染成蓝紫色的椰浆饭。娘惹五香包裹猪肉碎，外脆内香。仁当鸡酱汁不会太辣，鸡肉软嫩入味。酱焖卤肉（Babi Ponten）则是偶尔才会出场的功夫菜。将长豆切粒后炸成菜饼，也是比较少有的。

马来风味同中求异

马来杂菜饭以咖喱为主，因源头不同而有所差别。常见的是同时售卖印度煎饼的杂菜饭，一般由印裔穆斯林经营。他们会提供鸡、鱼和羊肉咖哩，让食客蘸点印度煎饼。蔬菜选择不多，一般只有炒包菜、马铃薯或长豆，加入黄姜粉和其他香料，所以带淡黄色。

印裔穆斯林经营的杂菜饭Nasi Kandar，是马来文“扁担饭”的意思，从前是挑扁担沿街售卖，从马来西亚传到新加坡。橘黄色香料饭Nasi Briyani以巴斯马蒂香米烹煮，比较干松，咖喱会比较辛辣。

源自印度尼西亚的Nasi Padang，以苏门答腊西部的巴东命名。用各式香料长时间炖煮的仁当不能错过，特别是仁当牛肉，也有鸡肉和羊肉。同样是咖喱，巴东咖喱会更有层次和风味，不一定很辣，有时会带甜味。 

桥北路的Warong Nasi Pariaman是新加坡著名的巴东饭业者，始于1948年。最具特色的炭烤肉类及仁当牛肉，伴有最闪亮的配角“Belado”辣椒酱。

1992年起在甘榜格南一带售卖巴东饭的HJH Maimunah，从2018年起连续七届列入米其林的“必比登推介”。除了仁当牛肉，以多种香料腌制的苏丹式烤鸡也值得推荐。还有烧酒螺，以奶黄色椰浆香料汁烹煮后，逐个把肉挑出来吃。

要在新加坡尝试不同族群的美食，杂菜饭是个不错的切入点。

Translation: Hong Xinyi

Economic rice or mixed vegetable rice

The economic rice stall at Goldhill Family Restaurant at Hougang Avenue 3 Block 6 is known for its affordable prices. Try the curry chicken, braised meats, and chicken wings.

At Ocean Curry Fish Head, which has three branches, don’t miss the claypot fish curry and homemade otah.

For more unusual options, check out dishes featuring salmon, grouper, lamb, and Wagyu beef at 666 Cai Fan • Porridge, located at Toa Payoh Lorong 1 Block 125.

Teochew porridge

In this dish, the rice grains remain whole, and the porridge base stays clear. It’s accompanied by dishes such as steamed fish, braised duck, and salted vegetables.

Hainanese curry rice

When Hainanese migrants arrived in Singapore, one of the few places they could find work was in the households of British, Peranakan Chinese, and Japanese families.

That’s how Hainanese cooks mastered cuisines from these cultures, many of which can be found in Hainanese curry rice. These include Western-style pork chops, Nyonya curry chicken, and Indian curries.

Nyonya-style variations

This cuisine is usually labour-intensive and typically found in restaurants. The dishes found in economic rice or mixed vegetable rice stalls can be more affordable options.

Check out Yummy Nyonya Peranakan, at Market Street Hawker Centre, for its rich beef and chicken rendang, chicken and prawn curries, and ayam buah keluak.

Over at Emmanuel Peranakan Cuisine, at Marine Parade Central Market & Food Centre, the nasi lemak is tinged blue using butterfly pea flower. Besides ngoh hiang and chicken rendang, babi pongteh is occasionally on the menu.

Tip: Stalls that prepare food onsite, rather than supplied by a central kitchen, are likely to be more unique.

Nasi kandar

This originated with hawkers carrying the food in containers slung over their shoulders. Today, this Indian Muslim style of rice served with different kinds of curries remains popular.

Nasi briyani

This has both Malay and Indian influences, and tends to feature spicier curries. The basmati rice turns a distinct shade of yellow-orange, thanks to the saffron or turmeric added.

Nasi padang

This  originated from Indonesia. It features curries that are more layered in their flavours.

Warong Nasi Pariaman in North Bridge Road was founded in 1948. It’s a famous stall, known for preparing food over a charcoal flame, and for its sambal balado chilli sauce.

HJH, is another well-known stall, and has been listed as a Michelin Bib Gourmand eatery. Signature dishes include beef rendang, Sundanese grilled chicken, and lemak siput.