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把世界文化“卷”入口

一卷一世界,从亚洲到美洲的卷饼之旅。

文│陈爱薇    图│新报业媒体提供

一张饼皮,包裹不同食材,即成一道经典小吃。从亚洲、南亚、欧亚到欧美都有“卷饼”,不同原材料制成的面皮,放入风味各异的馅料,再卷成条状。这款小吃再次展现世界大同、异曲同工之妙。

★墨西哥卷饼★

在新加坡常见的墨西哥料理是夹饼(taco),其实另一款卷饼(burrito)在当地也很普遍。卷饼是用饼皮包裹肉类、豆类、豆泥和碎芝士等。

这款卷饼流传他乡后,融入当地口味,如在美国加入生菜、玉米和洋葱等,并涂抹鳄梨酱、萨尔萨辣酱和酸奶油。美国快餐点还推出加了炒蛋、薯饼和培根的卷饼早餐。美国连锁快餐店将它带到中国时,加入北京烤鸭和鸡肉,以及黄瓜条。

本地知名墨西哥连锁品牌Guzman y Gomez的卷饼,则包裹白米饭或糙米饭、肉类或菜品、芝士、黑豆,以及新鲜萨尔萨(番茄、香菜和洋蔥混合而成),还有萨尔萨辣酱。这一份卷饼下肚,也十分饱足。

Chimichanga是油炸版卷饼,流行于美国西南部及墨西哥西北部。传统作法是去掉不适合油炸的酱料和生菜,将米饭、黑豆泥、甜椒丁、洋葱、猪肉和培根等充分拌炒,制作成卷饼后下锅油炸。

本地就有一家直接以这道料理命名的餐馆Chimichanga。炸卷饼有牛肉丝、奇波雷烟熏辣椒(chipotle)鸡肉和素肉三款。

★土耳其烤肉卷饼★

如果逛过新加坡夜市,应该对竖着旋转的土耳其烤肉(Kebab)不陌生。做法是将腌制好的肉,一片片插在垂直串上,像一个圆柱,然后由外至内烤熟。之后,从最外围把肉削下来,加入生菜和酱料裹在饼皮内。由于摊主多是穆斯林,烤肉以鸡肉和牛肉为主,羊肉也很少见。

一些小贩中心也有售卖,如黄埔熟食中心的“Mr Kebab”由一名埃及商人和新加坡太太经营。这里的鸡肉卷饼内有很多新鲜生菜和番茄,并配合本地口味,加了美奶滋和甜辣椒酱。

★越南春卷★

越南春卷的最大特色是以米纸包裹。这款米纸有点像

塑胶片,沾水后很快就软化。在新加坡,所包裹的食材有熟虾或猪肉,以及越南圆米粉、生菜、九层塔和薄荷叶等。蘸料是柠檬汁和鱼露,还会配搭新鲜九层塔和薄荷叶。

本地有不少越南餐馆,咖啡店和食阁也不乏越南摊位,多有售卖这款小吃。例如So Pho、Mrs Pho、Paper Rice、Thien Long、Little Saigon、Red Sparrow。

除了直接食用的清爽版本,还有一款酥炸的越南春卷。

★福建薄饼★

薄饼是新加坡常见的一道小吃,更是福建人逢年过节少不了的年菜。薄饼象征卷起“金银财宝”,把福气全吃进肚子里。

在咖啡店或食阁售卖的薄饼,是在薄面皮抹些甜酱和辣酱,加入热乎乎的沙葛,以及一些鸡蛋、花生、豆芽和香菜。

其实,福建人家庭制作的薄饼非常讲究,食材有包菜、红萝卜、豌豆苗、豆干、蒜、韭菜、冬笋、蛋丝、五花肉、鱼肉和虾仁等,都得预先切丝和煮熟。冬笋祝福“顺利”,韭菜代表“长久”,蒜寓意“有钱算”。一家老小三代同堂一起包薄饼,热闹又温馨。

★台式蛋饼★

台式蛋饼的饼皮,和中式葱油饼及印度煎饼接近,不过更加轻盈柔韧。其口味多样化,如火腿、芝士、肉松和鲔鱼酥,和蛋液混合煎好后,放在煎好的蛋饼皮后往内折成卷。蛋饼内还会涂抹酱油膏,吃起来咸中带甜。在台湾,蛋饼内还有夹油条的选项,这里倒不常见。 

新加坡多数台式食店都有供应蛋饼,如初早餐、丰盛号、八度空间和恋恋湾味。

新加坡薄饼传奇

“好彩薄饼”由前报人侯深湖于1977年创立,2000年鼎盛时期有四家分店。一场沙斯疫情冲击各行各业,如今第三代专注经营红山的老店(Block 149 Silat Ave #01-58)。薄饼馅料有沙葛、红萝卜、豆芽、四季豆、包菜、蒜、虾仁等。无论堂食或外卖,所有食材是分开的,让食客自己动手包,体会个中乐趣。

另一家在小贩中心开枝散叶的是“富城食品”,有适合家庭和公司办聚餐活动的不同配套。本地一些餐馆也提供福建薄饼,如牛车水老字号咏春园(52-56 Upper Cross St),以及同乐餐饮集团旗下的老北京餐馆(Square2 #02-80 )。

新加坡薄饼界的另一个传奇,是从1938年经营至今的郭源发如切薄饼(95 Joo Chiat Rd)。店家坚持以手工制作,产量有限。

这门传统手艺非常考功夫,要反复搅打面团,再徒手将面团抹拭在150摄氏度的高温铁板上,拉出一张张薄如纸的饼皮。整套动作看似行云流水,但稍不小心就会被烫伤。除了薄饼皮,店家也售卖限量的现包薄饼。

油炸版的叫春卷,用较小张的饼皮包裹沙葛和红萝卜等食材,下锅炸至金黄香脆。

The universal appeal of the roll

Tasty fillings all wrapped up in a compact roll – that’s a snack that can be found in every region of the world. Their names and ingredients may be different, but rolls of different origins usually share the same trait of being delicious.

Translation: Hong Xinyi

★ Hokkien popiah ★

Popiah can be found in Singapore, where its ingredients typically include jicama, egg, peanuts, bean sprouts, and coriander. For Hokkien Singaporeans, popiah is served during special occasions. The dish symbolises rolling up riches and treasures, and eating good fortune. Hokkiens can be very particular about the way it is served. Ingredients are more elaborate, and include carrots, pea sprouts, tau kwa (firm tofu), garlic, chives, winter bamboo shoots, pork belly, fish, and shrimp. All have to be cooked and shredded as part of the preparation work for assembling the dish. Individual ingredients can come with their own symbolisms too. The winter bamboo shoots denote things going smoothly, while chives denote longevity, and garlic denotes wealth.

★ Vietnamese spring roll ★

These rolls are wrapped using rice paper, which somewhat resembles plastic before the addition of water softens it. In Singapore, the filling for Vietnamese spring rolls includes cooked prawn or pork, Vietnamese vermicelli, lettuce, basil, and peppermint, with lemon juice and fish sauce used for the marinade. This dish can be found in many local Vietnamese restaurants and stalls, such as So Pho, Mrs Pho, Paper Rice, Thien Long, and Red Sparrow.

★ Turkish kebab roll★

Kebabs have become a familiar sight at local night markets, where seasoned meat is roasted on a vertical rotisserie. The outermost layer of meat is shaved off, and wrapped up with lettuce and sauces to make a roll. As the owners of these stalls are usually Muslim, the meat they serve is typically chicken, beef, and lamb. The kebab roll can also be found at hawkers centres, such as Whampoa Makan Place’s Mr Kebab, whose rolls come with lots of fresh lettuce and tomatoes, as well as mayonnaise and sweet chilli sauce to please local palates. 

★ Taiwanese egg roll ★

The wrapper is similar to a Chinese scallion pancake and Indian prata, but lighter and softer. Egg is the one constant, and it can be combined with a variety of other fillings, including ham, cheese, pork floss, and flaked tuna. The wrapper is smeared with a soya sauce paste, which gives this roll savoury and sweet flavours. In Taiwan, fried dough sticks are sometimes used as the filling, but this is not so common in Singapore. Get Taiwanese egg rolls at eateries such as True Breakfast, Fong Sheng Hao, 8 Degrees, and Want Food Taiwanese Delights.

★ Mexican burrito ★

While a Mexican burrito comes with fillings such as meat, beans, and cheese, this versatile wrap has been adapted for many different regions and cultures, where it now features local ingredients. In Singapore, Guzman y Gomez offers burritos that include white rice and brown rice, in addition to meat, lettuce, cheese, black beans, and salsa. The chimichanga is a fried version of the burrito, and can include rice, beans, bell peppers, onion, and pork. Local restaurant Chimichanga serves its namesake dish with beef, chipotle chicken, and plat-based meat substitutes.