厨师,拜托了!
文·陈爱薇 图·受访者提供
放下点餐权,体验无菜单的惊喜。
“Omakase”在日文可解释为“拜托你了,交给你了”,常用在高级日本寿司店,顾客不点餐,厨师按季节和新鲜度决定菜式,体现顾客对厨师的充分信任。香港也很流行,称为“厨师发办”,在新加坡更直接称为“厨师做主”。
这种源自日本的饮食形式,如今在新加坡百花齐放,且不仅是日本餐。所呈现的料理也不限于一种风味,而是结合各家所长,充分体现新加坡饮食文化大融合的特色。
另外,本地的“厨师做主”也非全无菜单,通常会说明几道式,及一些例常前菜和甜品,只是主食会按可获得的食材作调整。如此,食客虽不能全然惊喜,也不必担心有“惊吓”。
文中介绍的料理,下一回换季或厨师更换菜单时,可能就不再出现。
★ 一号餐馆的海鲜烧烤套餐 ★
一号餐馆(One Prawn & Co)就像百变女郎,白天售卖新加坡虾面,晚上推出12道式海鲜烧烤套餐。套餐每人收费$128++,精选来自日本兵库县的鲜蚝、苏格兰的帝王扇贝、丹麦的多宝鱼等。只限星期二至星期日傍晚6时至晚上11时,目前只接受预订,至少两人,另付$30可享用无限添加的店家清酒。
女主厨翁宜铃曾任职于本地多家知名餐馆,如Burnt Ends、同乐私房菜和Forlino,所呈现的料理创意连连。兵库县鲜蚝肉搭配木犀草酱(Mignonette)和意大利脆冰沙。水煮白虾配上椰丝和印度十三香(Garam masala)。苏格兰帝王扇贝则铺满特制XO辣酱。
458 Macpherson Rd
★ Willow以多样手法烹饪日本食材 ★
谭国全(Nicholas Tam)毕业于理工学院烹饪及餐饮承办管理文凭班,2012年和厨艺导师参加博古斯世界烹饪大赛(Bocuse d’Or),获亚洲区金牌。之后他先后在Joel Robuchon、Esora和Zen餐馆积累经验,如今独当一面,带领一组20多岁的年轻团队。
他喜欢向来保持高品质的日本食材,以简单方式方法展现料理原味。今年的春季小食有北海道带子配咸洋蓟(artichokes),
再以柠檬奶油提香。春夏之交樱花季时的产卵前鲷鱼(SakuraDai)特别肥美,配上爽脆油菜花和百合花瓣酱。一些菜肴保留中餐和西餐的经典元素,如泡饭和法式烧乳鸽。
甜点厨师苏慧珊(26岁)的作品也带有本地风味,或以本地食客熟悉的味道为灵感,如酸梅冰沙配腌制番石榴。午餐$158++,晚餐$228++,酒品配对$118++。
39 Hong Kong St
★ Sonder主打欧亚风味料理 ★
主厨梁耀祖是本地名厨梁兆基和泰裔妻子Forest的儿子。他曾任职于2am: dessertbar、新加坡洲际酒店甜品部、The Tippling Club、V-Dining等工作,也曾和父母一起于Forest餐馆共事。
隐藏在亨德森工业区的这家餐馆,白天推出两道或三道式套餐,以及自家烘焙的面包。晚餐则只有
“厨师做主”菜单,四道式$88++,六道式$138++,
八道式菜$188++。
自家烘焙的牛油可颂、佛卡夏面包、布里欧修牛油面包、法式焦糖奶油酥等让人期待,会搭配海盐、昆布和黑蒜牛油等。
料理灵感来自成长过程中的所闻所见。鸡肉卷意大利炖饭的灵感来自一家大小爱吃的鸡饭,意大利炖饭(Risotto)以鸡汤和姜汁煮成,鸡卷取代斩件鸡肉,加上自制蒜蓉辣椒酱和黑酱油。澳大利亚肺鱼淋上泰式青柠汁,香烤黑猪猪颈肉搭配烤苹果片,以红宝石甜品为概念的冰糕,都带有泰国风味。
217 Henderson Rd #01-03
★ La D’Oro糅合日式元素的意式菜单 ★
拥有逾20年烹饪经验的餐馆厨师兼老板佐口木洋平(Yohhei Sasaki),曾任职于多家日本、意大利及本地意大利餐馆。面包篮是厨房新鲜自制的精华,包括迷你长棍面包、核桃全麦面包、开心果布里欧修(briohes)等,牛油是带东洋风的柚子口味。Raspadura芝士也很有特色,raspa是指一种古代刀削芝士技术,以特定刮刀刮下的芝士薄如翼。
这个春天有櫻樽魚(Sakura masu)肉酱和青森(Aomori)苹果千层蛋糕等。午餐$158++,晚餐$258++,菜单随季节更换。
333A Orchard Rd, Mandarin Gallery #01-16/17
★ Hanazen日本炭烤融入本地风味 ★
日本大阪连续六年获得米其林两星殊荣、同时名列全球50最佳餐馆的La Cime餐厅,创办人日本名厨高田裕介(Yusuke Takada)今年在新加坡开了首家海外门店-Hanaze。餐馆日本炭烤为主题,加上法式摆盘,体现糅合之美。16道式套餐每人$240,结合精致菜肴与日式串烧。
炭烤食材变化多,为本地食客带来非一般新口味。菜单上不时会出现矜贵食材,如被誉为海洋鹅肝的鮟鱇魚肝。鮟鱇魚肝以清酒和干邑(cognac)蒸熟待凉后上菜,带淡淡酒香。
原以为是全日式,感受到南洋风时甚为惊喜。如黑色小球状“Singa-Dog”,黑色取自娘惹菜中常用的黑果和竹炭,馅料是鸡肉松和鸡肝。牛肉鲔鱼挞盛装在以甜菜根做成的“小红杯”内,像娘惹菜的小金杯。绿意昂然的意式奶冻(Panna Cotta),
加了班兰叶。
30 Victoria St #01-21/22 CHIJMES
When the chef knows best
Omakase dining is most associated with top-end sushi restaurants, where customers let the chef decide on what to serve. In Singapore, this style is no longer just restricted to Japanese cuisine. Here’s a look at some omakase options.
★ One Prawn & Co ★
In the daytime, this eatery serves prawn noodles. At night, it becomes a seafood bar and grill, where a set meal costs $128++ (an additional $30 gets you an unlimited flow of sake). Limited to Tuesdays to Sundays, 6pm to 11pm, reservations required. Chef Gwyneth Ang’s creative combinations include Hyogo oysters with mignonette granita, and Scottish king scallop with XO chilli jam.
458 Macpherson Rd
★ Willow ★
Chef Nicholas Tam leads a young team here, and he likes using high-quality Japanese ingredients in simple ways to bring out their original flavours. This spring, the menu features Hokkaido scallops with artichokes and succulent sakuradai fish. Lunch is $158++, dinner is $228++, and alcohol pairings are $118++.
39 Hong Kong St
★ La D’Oro ★
Chef-owner Yohhei Sasaki has over 20 years of experience from restaurants here and abroad. Besides the delicious bread offerings, this restaurant has Raspadura cheese shaved using a classic technique. The spring menu features sakura masa fish and Amori apple mille foglie. Lunch is $158++, dinner is $258++, and the menu changes with the season.
333A Orchard Rd, Mandarin Gallery #01-16/17
★ Sonder ★
Helming this restaurant is chef Joe Leong, the son of famous local chef Sam Leong and his Thai wife Forest. The dinner omakase menu serves four for $88++, six for $138++, and eight for $188++. Dishes are inspired by the chef’s favourites. For instance, the chicken roulade and risotto is influenced by chicken rice, while a popsicle riffs on the Thai red ruby dessert.
217 Henderson Rd #01-03
★ Hanazen ★
Chef Yusuke Takada is the man behind acclaimed Osaka restaurant La Cime. This is his first restaurant abroad, and features charcoal-grilled Japanese dishes with a French presentation. A 16-course dinner is $240. Look out for surprises like Singa-Dog, which uses edible bamboo charcoal and buah keluak (an ingredient often found in Peranakan cuisine), as well as pandan panna cotta.
30 Victoria St, #01-21/22 Chijmes