红山:剑鱼传说与现实

文图 · 李国樑

红山地形图(根据2023年谷歌地图绘制)

新加坡的小学课文,曾经收录古代新加坡的传奇故事,《红山的传说》乃其中一篇。

话说从前,新加坡海里有很多剑鱼(旗鱼)用坚韧的“长剑”攻击渔民,大家都不敢出海。国王派遣饶勇善战的军士出战,结果损兵折将,反而助长剑鱼的气焰。国王召集谋臣献计,始终想不出好办法。

男孩汉纳丁前来求见:“陛下,把香蕉树干做成围栏插在浅滩上,就可以对付剑鱼了。”国王马上命令兵士照做,剑鱼的尖嘴卡在香蕉树干上动弹不得,结果被消灭。

解除剑鱼危害后,渔民都很开心,国王却终日发愁,担忧聪明的汉纳丁长大后,可能会把自己的王位夺走,于是狠下心肠追杀他。汉纳丁逃到山上,最终还是惨遭毒手,鲜血染红整座山岗。民间为了纪念汉纳丁,称这座山为红山。

建屋局规划的“大”红山(Bukit Merah)组屋区由中峇鲁、直落布兰雅、丹戎巴葛和红山(Redhill)组成,超过15万居民住在5万多个组屋单位里。红山的命名并不是因为《红山的传说》,而是出自亨德申路(Henderson Road)与麟谷峇鲁(Lengkok Bahru)之间的红土山丘。

坟山上兴建的组屋区

1955年建造的红山弄改良信托局组屋是红山第一批组屋

红山一带曾经是福建人坟山,麟记山(麟山亭1885-1963)和姓林山(红山1890-1967)以惹兰冢(Jalan Tiong)为界,跟附近的杨氏协源山、四脚亭、恒山亭和广东人的绿野亭形成连绵的坟场。不过跟许多老坟场的命运一样,都让地给活人居住了。

1955年建造的红山弄(Red Hill Close)22座改良信托局组屋,见证红山多年来的发展历程。这些组屋昵称“七层楼”,特色是梯形屋顶和弧形外墙。红山弄组屋落成时,公积金购屋计划尚未落实,政府以每月52元将单位出租给受迁徙影响的红山乡村居民,20多年后将这些单位卖给住户,让居民拥有属于自己的屋子。

90年代七层楼进行提升,增加额外的厨房空间,同时增建电梯方便年长居民。这些新设施并不能阻止政府重新发展优质地段的计划,如今七层楼已人去楼空。原居民年华渐老,搬离安居多年的家,不免带些伤感与无奈。毕竟家是心血打造出来的,四面砖墙筑造的空间回荡着各家各户的故事。

社工必争之地

初期的红山组屋区以收入偏低的家庭居多,成为义务社会团体“必争之地”。我读大专时,亦曾在红山组织过“关怀儿童计划”活动:为孩子们免费补习、组织集体活动、参观动物园等。多年以后,他们已为人父母,早婚的甚至已经抱孙,回忆起成长的地方,依然有受宠若惊的感觉。

红山的麟谷峇鲁一带组屋,是1961年河水山木屋区大火后紧急建成的。根据欧进福的回忆录:他当区议员的时候,决定领军筹募建联络所基金,1977年中旬飞往台北,跟当地三家电视台的管理层商讨,两个月后台视派出钻石阵容,联合香港和本地艺人在国家剧场的“星光灿烂晚会”义演。筹款委员会深受鼓舞,接下来两年先后推出巨星云集的“宝丽金”和“英保良之夜”。筹到的60万元,加上政府双倍津贴,此后居民有了现代化活动中心,学生也有了温课的地方。

红山曾经私会党云集,比剑鱼传说更令人触目惊心,如今则转型为百多万元转售组屋的生财之地。由于成熟地区的大型组屋有限,这些靠近市区的单位成为抢手货,引起屋价是否“负担得起”的热议。当然不排除有些买家因原产业集体出售,手头现金充裕,不惜高价买下心仪的屋子养老。

红山中心第169座单位曾经是建屋局总部。1960年成立的建屋局,取代殖民地时代的改良信托局。建屋局在麦士威路的年代,居民经历从租屋到拥屋的阶段。80年代建屋局迁入红山中心,重点转移到为中上收入家庭提供更大和质量较好的单位、重建旧组屋区和组屋提升。21世纪初建屋局迁至大巴窑中心的年代,建屋局已经成为最大的“产业发展商”,面对整体人口开始老化,年轻人、组屋提升者和老年人的需求各异,塑造未来大众住宅可谓任重道远。

红山工业化

新加坡自治的年代,进出口总值在7亿元徘徊,转口贸易已达瓶颈;人口则从140万增加至近200万,战后婴儿潮出生的孩子陆续进入职场,通过工业化来开拓就业机会是唯一出路。

二战前红山一带已经打下工业化基础,包括饼干厂、玻璃厂、酿酒厂、砖厂等。洋人将饮食文化如英式下午茶、蛋糕和饼干传入本地,太丰东主李俊承引入英国自动化科技来生产饼干。马来亚航空公司(后来改组为马航和新航)乘客享用的马里饼干和火炬牌糖果,都是太丰的产品。马里饼干的出现可追溯至19世纪末英国王室婚礼,当时伦敦的糕点业者特地为这场盛宴发明新口味奶油饼,本地产商将它普及化,成为平民百姓都可以享用的大众美食。

新加坡玻璃厂研发与制造各种汽水玻璃瓶

新加坡玻璃厂是本地唯一的玻璃瓶制造商,从前的汽水瓶、啤酒瓶、酱油瓶等都由它制造。玻璃厂于二战后成立,产品外销与内需各占一半。玻璃厂成立研发部门,成功推出深受消费者喜爱的三种颜色玻璃器皿,为纯无色透明容器增添时代感。

熔炉是制造玻璃产品的主要生产器材,每生产8.5吨玻璃产品,就必须消耗1吨燃油,酷热的工作环境成为员工离职的理由。80年代初在裕廊设立新厂时,新加坡玻璃厂引进自动化熔炉,燃油消耗量降低了,劳动力亦从约千名员工减少四成。熔炉员工以前每天必须喝10杯水来补充身体流失的水分,现在只需要两杯。

红山职业学校原址创建新协立综合设施(Enabling Village),为残障和特需人士提供职业培训和就业配对等服务

红山组屋区落成后,组屋外围的轻工业工厂为居民提供“原地工作”的机会。红山职业学校招收学业欠佳,但对工艺技术有浓厚兴趣的中二学生,厂家为职业学校毕业生推出学徒训练计划,工业前景欣欣向荣。职业学校完成使命后,原址创建新协立综合设施(Enabling Village),这个特别设计的包容性社区空间,为残障和特需人士提供职业培训和就业配对等服务。

让早期红山居民“原地工作”的红山工业区

前国家生产力局是红山工业区的重要地标。80年代工业转型,从劳工密集迈入高增值的精密工程领域,国家生产力局负责提升工人技能,提倡“学日本,看日本”,全国兴起一股哈日热潮。日本成功落实的品管圈、即时管理(JIT)、看板管理(kanban management)、全面品质管理(TQM)都是考察学习的对象。日本生产力中心名誉会长乡司浩平馈赠的8句真言,镶在前国家生产力局大堂上,鼓励劳资政继续合作,贯彻通过员工、制度、领导相互配合来提升的社会发展理念。这套体系在日本发扬光大,使日本产品从“水货”脱胎换骨,成为品质与创意的佼佼者,并且从技术仿造转型为科技研发,急起直追成为经济大国。多年来,这套生产力模式对新加坡社会发展举足轻重。

前国家生产力局大堂,日本生产力中心名誉会长乡司浩平馈赠的8句真言

百年古庙

百年坟山古庙:麟山亭北极宫

红山最古老的遗迹,就是创建于光绪五年(1879年)的麟山亭北极宫。1960年代政府征用麟记山坟场的时候,古庙获得保留。根据颜氏公会的资料,颜应麟(颜麟)创立麟记商行经营燕窝生意。1866年左右,他将部分土地捐献给福建会馆作为麟山亭义冢,部分保留为颜氏家族墓地。麟记路、麟谷峇鲁、麟记山等都以他的商号命名。

真龙宫的传统建筑结构

红山弄的真龙宫联合庙,由三间百年古庙真人宫、龙山亭、介谷殿,以及较新的万仙庙组成。联合庙反映民间信仰的沿革过程,由于原来的土地被征用,信徒为庙宇寻找新地点,形成众神共处同一屋檐下的现代格局。

30年地契到期时,联合庙在红山弄原址重建,外观呈现代风格,殿堂则保留传统建筑结构。最明显的例子就是榫卯结合的斗拱,屋檐与栋梁通过此活动力学结构,达到支撑和防震的目的,将手艺,美学与科学融为一体。

所谓 “上梁有如人之加冠”。中梁是结构力学的重要位置,宗教意义上则具有庙宇、天地、神灵与人的沟通含义。上中梁的时候,联合庙郑重其事,邀请鲁班师傅的18代弟子,从中国前来为新庙加冠。参观这座金碧辉煌的联合庙时,不妨多加留意这些别具风味的传统特色。

学校与重生

大家熟悉的颜永成中学,原身为百多年前颜永成创办的英华义学(Anglo-Chinese Free School)。颜永成受教育不多,但意识到掌握英文能力的重要性,决定建立一所同时教授中英文的学校,在直落亚逸创建校舍,让所有贫困学生免费入学。上世纪50年代,颜永成学校由小学转为中学。真龙宫联合庙旁的颜永成小学沿用颜永成的名字,那是由亚历山大山、河水山、亨德申,以及热心教育的猪农和乡绅们成立的更生小学合并的新学校,跟英华义学没有直接关系。

城市农场City Sprouts

冠病疫情管制期间,达善中学旧校舍已翻修为城市农场City Sprouts,让废置的校舍负起农业教育的功能,温室则开放给公众租用。农场走的不是量产路线,而是让公众了解农作物的种植过程,或许在支持本地农产品方面,能起着潜移默化的功用。

全面工业化的年代淘汰全岛多个农场,本地从农作物自给自足变成依赖进口。冠病疫情爆发时,让我们意识到作为食品进口国供应链危机所带来的冲击,正在快马加鞭地朝“30·30愿景”前进。希望这个年代结束时,本地农产品足以提供30%的国人需求。不过务农跟其他商业投资一样,普遍受到高昂的土地、水电、科技农场资金等影响,因此有些业者提出战略资源的概念,要求将农业提升至国防战略的规格,由政府拨款给予辅助。

从古老的剑鱼传说到建屋、工业化与振兴农业,红山传达着恒古不变的信息:居安思危。智慧国愿景,亦应有危机意识;穷则变、变则通、通则久。在现实中变通才可能拥有明天。

参考文献:

[1]“A Walk Through The Old Neighbourhood-Redhill Close”,

https://remembersingapore.org/2011/12/08/old-neighbourhood-redhill-close/accessed 9 November 2022.

[2]Kwek Li Yong, 《My Queenstown Heritage Trail》,  My Community 2014.

[3]“The Gans”,https://ganclan.sg/en/node/895 accessed 2 November 2022.

[4]麟山亭北极宫碑记。

[5]欧进福,《回首向来萧瑟处——欧进福回忆录》,玲子传媒2022,ISBN 9814992526.

[6]《山南山北走一回(5)——归宿·新加坡华人坟山》,https://singaporehistoryworkshop.wordpress.com/2011/10/23/山南山北走一回-(5)-归宿-新加坡华人坟山/accessed 31 October 2022.

(作者为英国皇家造船师学会会员、自由文史工作者)

Redhill: From Legend to Reality

According to the legend of old Singapore, Singapura suffered from deadly swordfish attacks. Shoals of swordfish killed fishermen with their long bills. The King sent his warriors to battle but many lost their lives. A boy named Hang Nadim suggested to the King to build a wall of banana tree trunks. During their usual attacks, the swordfish bills were caught in the trunks and they were then killed by the soldiers. While the fishermen were happily resuming their daily routine, the king fell into depressed mood, worrying that the boy will one day become a threat to the throne when he grew up. Han Nadim was executed and his blood stained the entire hill. The hill is known as Bukit Merah (Redhill) in honour of Han Nadim.

The HDB’s Bukit Merah housing estate consists of Tiong Bahru, Telok Blangah, Tanjong Pagar and Redhill, with more than 150,000 residents living in over 50,000 HDB flats. Redhill is not named after the swordfish legend, but from the hill covered by red earth between Henderson Road and Lengkok Bahru.

The Redhill vicinity was once a burial ground for the Hokkiens. The land was surrendered to the living just like many old cemeteries. In 1955, the first batch of the Singapore Improvement Trust (SIT) blocks was erected on Red Hill Close. The Government rented out the flats at S$52 per month to those who were affected by the kampung resettlement. These blocks were upgraded in the 1990s to add extra kitchen space, while additional lifts were built for the convenience of the older folks. However, these new facilities did not stop the government from redeveloping the prime site. They are now all vacated and in the process of tearing down.

In the early days, the Redhill HDBs housed mostly low-income families, drawing various voluntary social groups to give free tuition to children living in the area. Now that these children are parents and even have grandchildren, they still recall the place where they grew up with a feeling of being cared for.

Redhill, once a place where secret societies were more alarming than the legend of the swordfish, has been transformed into a lucrative place of which resale flats would fetch over a million dollars. There are possibilities that some buyers have sold their properties through en-bloc sales and garnered massive cash on hand. They are more than willing to pay a high-end rate for a home they want to retire in.

During the years of self governance, the value of imports and exports hovered at around S$700 million. On the other hand, the population had grown from 1.4 million to nearly 2 million. The post-war baby boomers were entering the workforce, making industrialisation the only way forward.

Before the Second World War, the foundation for industrialisation had already been laid in the Redhill area where there were biscuit factory, glass manufacturer, brick factories, beer and wine breweries etc. With the completion of the Redhill HDB estate, light industrial estate on the outskirts here offered “working in place” for the residents. The Bukit Merah Vocational Institute (VI) enrolled Secondary 2 students who were weak in academic subjects but technically superior. Manufacturers took in the VI graduates through apprenticeship programmes. The future of industralisation future was thriving.

In the 1980s, Singapore was driving the change from labour-intensive to high value-added precision engineering industry. Another bold change was to link worker wages with productivity. The National Productivity Board (NPB) then was tasked with fronting the nationwide effort. The plaque of Eight Basic Doctrines of Productivity from Kohei Goshi, Honorary Chairman of the Japan Productivity Centre, was mounted at the lobby of the former NPB building. It reminded us productivity symbolises one of the highest values that mankind should persistently pursue. It helps to create peace, strengthen democracy, and generate cooperative efforts among the government, business, and labour. In a nutshell, it makes the world a better place. The fundamental philosophy of productivity has been pivotal to Singapore’s social development over the years.